All the stuff that didn't make the cut into the book as well as articles and discussions about climbing and training in general.
The other day I talked to someone about his training and he proudly announced that he trains 6 days a week, only taking one rest day.
When I suggested maybe a bit more rest might be helpful to get stronger his reply was: „I‘ll rest when I‘m injured again.“
This certainly is one route you can choose to take...
It‘s that time of year again, tons of food, delicious treats and drinks are waiting on every corner to be devouered and enjoyed in the company of family and friends.
But as a climber we can‘t eat that, right?
We have to be light to finish off that project next year!
So let‘s not eat the Christmas cookies and have a yummie kale smoothie instead - it‘s almost the same, isn‘t it?
Designing an absolute perfect training plan for an athlete is utterly complex.
So is figuring out the perfect nutrition.
But the more I study different topics (strength training, athlete nutrition, mental training, different sports and arts), the more I see a recurring pattern emerge.
Once you start to truly understand the finer details and complex correlations of a certain topic (i.e. become and expert), there suddenly appears a beautiful simplicity beneath it.
We often believe that all of the most successful climbers (or successful people in general) are successful due to their innate talent. An ability they were born with, a gift that was bestowed upon them - but not us.
Yet very few of these people when asked consider themselves to be exceptionally gifted.
But if it is not some magical power that makes them perform at such an extraordinary level, then what is it? Can we mere mortals actually learn it, emulate it and have our own performance rise above what has been possible before as well? Can we apply it to our training for climbing and bouldering to unlock new levels of achievements?
As it turns out we can!